Around the turn of the century and in the interwar period it was considered a center of intellectual life: The Viennese coffeehouse. The atmosphere cannot be compared with other European cafes. It is a place where one can study both domestic and foreign newspapers, play billiards or chess, discuss current events or simply enjoy the public bath. The feature writer Alfred Polgar was correct in stating, "People who go to the coffee house want to be a lone in the company of others."A brief history of the coffee house in Vienna
According to legend, the Turks left behind sacks of green beans after the second siege in 1683. The people of Vienna had little idea what to do with these beans. Jerzy Franciszek Kulcycki, an officer and interpreter, knew these beans well from his travels to Turkey. He took up their cause and opened the first coffee house. In reality, the first documented coffee house was founded in 1685 by an Armenian named Johannes Diodato, who received the first coffee bar privilege. The new drink quickly gained great popularity and other coffee houses opened. In 1819 there were 150 cafes and, by the turn of the century, the number had increased to around 600. At the end of the 19th century and beginning of the 20th century, cafes were famous for their artists, writers, politicians and scientists who used them for their workplaces. It almost seems as if the lofty intellectual flights of Peter Altenberg, Arthur Schnitzler, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Sigmund Freud and many others were served alongside a large coffee and a glass of water on a silver platter.
The Viennese coffee houses: A selection
A visit to a coffee house is a part of any trip to Vienna. To enjoy the special atmosphere, one should visit one for at least an hour. Ordering a drink gives every guest the right to stay for however long he or she likes. Below is a small sampling of the more than 500 coffee houses which have largely retained their traditional charm.
Griensteidl
This stylish cafe, with the nickname "Cafe Megalomania" is a legendary literary cafe. Among the artists who have been associated with it are Hugo von Hofmannsthal, Hermann Bahr, Peter Altenberg and Karl Kraus. It was founded by Henry Griensteidl in 1846 but was closed in 1897 because of demolition of the house. Then, in 1990, a new Griensteidl was opened. Red accented Thonet chairs made of black wood dominate the scene. There is a wide selection of dishes and international newspapers.
Michaelerplatz 2, daily from 8am-23.30pm.
Cafe Braunerhof
The Braunerhof is one of the most classic coffee houses in Vienna. The style and atmosphere of the cafe culture have survived there, as well as the traditional unfriendliness of the waiters. There are excellent pastries, a wide selection of newspapers and, on the weekend, live music.
Stallburggasse 2, Monday to Friday, 8am-21pm, Saturday 8am-19pm, Sunday 10am-19pm.
Landtmann
Franz Landtmann opened in 1873, "the most elegant coffee spot of Vienna" and founded along with it a coffee house institution. Sigmund Freud, Marlene Dietrich, Romy Schneider, Paul McCartney and Hillary Clinton have all been guests. The excellent dishes and the excellent cakes can be enjoyed either on the terrace or in the conservatory.
Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Ring 4, daily 8am-24pm.
Cafe Central
The Central was once a favorite haunt of writers and intellectuals. Leon Trotsky, Hugo von Hofmannsthal and Arthur Schnitzler made the cafe a legend. The life-size figure of the author Peter Altenberg which sits at a marble table at the entrance reminds one of the time of the coffee house literaries. The atmosphere is comfortable and the Viennese cuisine comes highly recommended.
Herrengasse 14, Monday to Saturday 7.30am-22pm, 10am-22pm on Sunday.
Cafe Sperl
The Sperl, apart from a restoration in 1983, has remained unchanged since its opening in 1880. It is the most romantic of the Viennese coffee houses and has preserved its fine old character and its unique cafe atmosphere. Even today, it is still a popular meeting place for artists and intellectuals.
Gumpendorfer Str 11, Monday to Saturday 7am-23pm, Sunday, 11am-20pm (in July and August closed on Sundays).
Hawelka
The Hawelka is something of a legend. From its opening in 1939, Mr. Leopold Hawelka welcomed the guests personally and directed them to the 26 marble tables. Artists used to sit on the padded benches until late night. Meanwhile, three generations of Hawelkas have worked in the cafe. The atmosphere and the original Art Nouveau furnishings are largely intact and there are still fresh dumplings at 22 pm. In the past these were baked every night by Josefine Hawelka, but now her son, Genter Hawelka, prepares them from the original recipe.
Dorotheergasse 6, Monday, Wednesday through Saturday from 8am-2am, Sunday from 16pm-2am.
Drinks in the cafe
Simply ordering a "coffee" is a faux pas in Viennese coffee houses. Here is a brief overview of the most popular coffee flavors:
* Large or small brown: large or small cup of coffee with a splash of milk
* Large or small black: coffee without milk
* Coffee wrong: more milk than coffee
* One-horse carriage: mocha served in a glass with whipped cream
* Blend: Coffee with lots of milk, with whipped cream
* Imperial blend: coffee and alcohol mixed with egg yolk
For each coffee, the mandatory glass of tap water will be served.
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